About Model Railroading

Which is better, HO or N scale?

Each scale offers advantages that the other can't match, and for a particular modeler, this makes all the difference in the world. HO is the most popular and thus has the broadest availability of rolling stock, building kits, and other scale materials needed to complete a scene. Most modelers simply like its middle-of-the-road size. But it's difficult to run 50-car trains on even medium-sized HO layouts. In N scale, size does matter, especially to those who simply don't have much space for a layout. N Scale product availability has not been an issue in more than a decade as the scale continues to expand. Simply put, it's a matter of choice.

What is the NMRA?

The National Model Railroad Association (NMRA), is an organization devoted to the development, promotion, and enjoyment of the hobby. It establishes and publishes standards and recommended practices used by the hobby industry so cars and locomotives produced by different manufacturers are compatible with one another. There are NMRA conventions and meetings held at the national, regional, and local levels.

What is NTRAK?

NTRAK or NTrak is a take off on the word AmTrak, which is the national company that runs passenger trains in the United States. NTRAK is a national organization of N Scale model railroaders that provides the standards for making the modules NTRAK clubs use in setting up a layout, like we do at Montana NTRAK. (Click on the NTRAK Logo on our Links Page to go to the NTRAK national organization.)

Why are some scales written with a lower case n, as in HOn3?

Consider it a handy abbreviation that describes not only the modeling scale but also the track gauge used for a particular model pike. The "n" signals that it is narrow gauge -- in this case, 3 feet. (Standard gauge track has rails 4'8-1/2" apart.) Other variations include Gn3, On3, HOn2-1/2, and Nn3.

How much does it cost to get started?

One of the best ways to get started in model railroading is to purchase a model train set that you and your family can enjoy together, particularly around the winter holidays. A set has everything you need to operate trains, including a locomotive, cars, track, and a transformer (power pack) to control speed and direction. Many sets can be found for $100 to $400. If that's too steep, consider purchasing a used set from a local hobby shop.

TRACK AND ROADBED QUESTIONS

What is meant by a No. 4 turnout?

In a No. 4 turnout, the diverging rails are one unit apart when measured four units past the point of the frog. Thus, for every four feet of travel past the frog, the rails are one foot further apart, as long as the track stays straight. A No. 4 is a very sharp turnout, and No. 6 and No. 8 turnouts, while longer, are more realistic and reliable for model operations, particularly for N Scale.

What is meant by the word "code," as in code 80 track?

The "code" is simply the rail's height in thousandths of an inch, so code 80 rail is .080 inches high. The term is not used in real railroading, where rail size is typically expressed by pounds per yard instead of height.

What is Homasote, and why do so many layout builders use it?

Homasote is a pressed paper product made by the Homasote Corp. It's recycled newsprint and comes in 4 x 8-foot sheets that are a half-inch thick. It's usually used as wall-insulating material. Homasote's main advantage is that its density allows it to hold spikes well, yet it's soft enough that they can be driven in with a pair of needlenose pliers. This is a particularly attractive feature for those who handlay track. Homasote has its disadvantages: It has poor dimensional stability and tends to expand when exposed to high humidity. This problem can be addressed by sealing the product with paint or shellac. It's also difficult to cut Homasote without generating a lot of dust and dulling saw blades. One solution is to use a knife-type blade (no teeth) in a saber saw. To find a dealer in your area, call the Homasote Corp. at 800-257-9491. Other roadbed options are Vinylbed (available from Hobby Innovations, P.O. Box 676, Mountain City, TN 37683) and cork, available in strips from various suppliers.

How do you prevent derailments?

Poor trackwork, faulty wheels, sharp curves, and unrealistically high speeds are often the culprits. Checking whether the wheels and track are in gauge, by using a National Model Railroad Association standards gauge, is a logical first step if a particular car or section of track seems to be at the center of recurring derailments.

Well-laid track is important. The rail joints should be smooth from the time you first lay the track. Avoid S-curves. Trains weren't meant to be serpentine. A straight section between two divergent curves will do wonders. More advanced trackwork methods include super-elevating curves, installing longer turnouts (No. 6 and greater), and reducing the number of rail joints through the use of flextrack.

The trucks on your rolling stock should always swivel freely. Any build-up of grime or dirt on wheels should be removed before it causes the car to wobble. Speed and sharp curves don not go well together. Real trains would never be subjected to the curves we use on model railroads. Few freight trains travel faster than an automobile on Interstate Highways. A model locomotive traveling 100 scale miles per hour on a sharp curve can easily derail.

How do you keep track clean?

Dirt on track is caused by a mix of dust, oil, and oxidation. Obviously a dry, dust-free environment is the best defense, and all but impossible. A well-vacuumed carpet, a clean furnace filter and air conditioning help, but dust is an ever-present guest. However, keeping the grease and oil from the gears of your working locomotives from reaching the track is achievable. Never overlubricate your locomotive. The excess will only migrate downward over time. Once the track is noticeably dirty, clean the railheads with an abrasive block, liquid track cleaner on a lint-free cloth, or a track-cleaning car. Excessively dirty wheels can make the track dirty in short order.

Do you have to solder track?

Soldering track has two advantages: better electrical conductivity and reinforced rail joints that stand up to stresses such as wood expansion, layout moving, and rail shifting. The key to good soldering is to start with a clean surface, use a non-acid core solder and a liquid resin flux, and use a hot iron to avoid melting the plastic ties. Don't overdo it; a little solder at the joint is all you need.

How do you figure grades, and how steep can they be?

Expressed as a percentage, grades indicate how steeply tracks climb. A 2 percent grade means a rise of two units for every 100 units of travel. In other words, a rise of 2 inches for 100 inches. Even at that seemingly minuscule rise, a locomotive loses roughly half its pulling power. Each additional percent increase reduces the pulling power of a locomotive consist pulling power by half again. The key to determining how steep to make a grade is to decide how many cars you plan to pull and what's practical in the available space. Realistically, anything greater than 5 percent is asking too much from a model locomotive.

CONTROL and ELECTRICAL QUESTIONS

How big of a power pack do I need?

Remember these handy rules when purchasing a pack: Amperes determine the amount of power. Voltage determines speed. Electrical rating (measured in voltamps, VA, meaning volts x amps) is what matters. Any pack will work on a big layout if enough feeder wires are attached to reduce electrical resistance and the resulting voltage drop that slows trains down as they get farther from the power source. A more powerful pack will be able to run more locomotives. If the amperes drawn exceed the pack's capacity, the pack begins to overheat. The pack that comes with a starter train set (rated as low as 7 volt-amps, or just 0.7 amps delivered at 10 volts) will run one (maybe two) locomotives at the same time. A 14 VA pack will easily power three or four locomotives. Don't throw away that tiny starter pack in train sets. It comes in handy for powering accessories separate from your main power source, freeing the bigger pack to run just locomotives.

How do you wire a reverse loop?

The common method is to insulate the reverse loop at both ends, run separate feeder wires from the power pack to the loop, and install a double-pole, double-throw (DPDT) toggle switch between the power pack and the non-loop feeder wires. While the train is in the reverse loop, you would throw the DPDT switch to reverse the polarity on the remaining track sections, allowing the train to leave the loop with ease.

LOCOMOTIVES and ROLLING STOCK QUESTIONS

What should I look for in buying an engine?

Are more expensive engines better? Modelers should consider these elements: realism, running capabilities, and level of detail. Beyond that, you'd use the same considerations as deciding whether to buy a $5,000, a $500, or a $50 watch. Obviously, there should be more inherent quality and value in an expensive locomotive, but the mid-priced version is often an attractive and well-equipped alternative. It's the inexplicably cheap one that warrants caution. N Scale manufacturers make models of varying qualities.

Atlas, InterMountain, Kato, and Life-Like (Proto 2000) excel in making fine plastic diesel locomotives with a high level of detail and excellent running characteristics. Model Power makes fine running metal steam locomotives, but the detail is not as extensive as you find on N Scale diesel locomotives. Bachmann's Spectrum Series steam locomotives also are very good, and they have more detailing than does the Model Power line.

Expect to pay $75 and more for each of those model locomotives. Steam locomotives, with their array of moving valve gear and rods, cost more to produce than the equivalent-quality diesel model locomotive, and often cost more. The middle ground is represented by Athearn, Con-Cor, and Walthers, whose locomotives are priced from $30 up.

Should I oil my trains?

Locomotives, yes. Freight and passenger cars, probably not. Nonetheless, it's important to use the right lubricants for maximum performance. The primary purpose of oil is to reduce wear and tear on moving parts, particularly those subjected to intense friction. Model locomotives will eventually break down without proper lubrication applied to motor bearings and gears. They are under constant stress.

Freight and passenger cars have friction points, but they are under far less stress. Today's models reduce friction by using acetal plastic sideframes and needlepoint axles. Oiling is unnecessary; once the oil becomes dirty and breaks down, it will actually increase friction.

What is a talgo truck?

It's a freight or passenger car truck with the coupler mounted on the truck frame instead of on the carbody itself. Truck-mounted couplers are common on N Scale rolling stock. Advanced modelers often modify or replace talgo trucks in favor of using body-mounted couplers for realism.

Should I replace my horn-hook couplers with knuckle couplers?

N Scale modelers often replace the horn-hook Rapido couplers that come on some rolling stock for a realistic appearance and for train operation. N Scale magnetic knuckle couplers are made by Accurail and Micro-Trains, among others.

SCENERY QUESTIONS

Does operating model trains involve advanced carpentry or electrical skills?

You don't have to be a highly skilled craftsman to enjoy model trains. In fact, one of the benefits of the hobby is that you can learn about these disciplines at any level you choose. In the course of pursuing the hobby, many people learn about electricity, woodworking, and working with plaster and art materials. Some may also learn about the operation and significance of real railroads throughout American society. Best of all, participating in the hobby enables families to spend more time together. Spouses and children contribute time and talents to searching for a collectible or building a layout.

What is Hydrocal?

A trademark product of U. S. Gypsum (USG Corp.), Hydrocal plaster's biggest advantage is its strength. Paper towels dipped in a soupy mix of Hydrocal and applied to a structure of balled paper or interwoven cardboard strips make a remarkably strong scenery shell. Hydrocal also takes detail very well when cast in rubber rock molds. Its drawback is that it is more difficult to carve and detail, unlike softer molding plaster that modelers usually prefer as the top coat on plaster scenery. What is ground foam? It's just what it sounds like: ground up pieces of foam dyed to represent grass, weeds, soil, shrubbery, and tree foliage. Woodland Scenics and AMSI are leaders in the field, but other manufacturers offer similar products. The material can be applied with diluted matte medium or white glue; it can also be applied directly to wet paint.

MODEL TRAIN QUESTIONS

What's the difference between model trains and model railroading?

Model railroading refers to the entire hobby, including both scale model trains and toy trains. Some prefer toy replicas rather than scale models of real trains or even fanciful representations because they look neat, feature many different colors, and bring back memories of their youth or when railroads helped build the United States. The majority of the people involved with the model train hobby consider themselves both collectors and operators. Collectors cherish their vintage and recent model trains as examples of innovative design and manufacture. They usually display their trains on shelves or in showcases and may study the features to learn more about their production and value.

Collectors may be generalists, who collect any type of train that suits their fancy. Most likely, though, they specialize and search for only those trains made by a particular company or during a certain era. Some hobbyists, recognizing the value of their trains, sell to other collectors and even speculate on the potential investment value of their collection.

Operators regularly take their trains out for a spin around a layout of track, often with scenery. Most hobbyists build their own layouts, though a few have layouts constructed for them, in basements, garages, or spare rooms in their homes.

In NTRAK model railroading, most modelers build a single 2x4-foot module that can be plugged into other modules to set up a big layout just about anywhere. Montana NTRAK modular model railroading provides a person living in a small apartment the opportunity to be a part of a big layout, like those we set up in the Gallatin Valley Mall or at the Museum of the Rockies or at the Bozeman Public Library, all here in Bozeman, Montana.

COSTS and VALUE QUESTIONS

How do I determine the value of my trains?

First, you need to identify your trains.

That means learning what their gauge is (measure the distance between its wheels), which company made them, and what number was assigned to them (look for names and numbers on the sides and bottom of models).

Second, you have to assess the condition of your trains.

The Train Collectors Association has established several grades to guide you. (From highest to lowest):

• Mint Condition - Brand new, often in its original, unopened packaging with all original paperwork included.
• Like New - Free of any blemishes, nicks, or scratches with original condition throughout. Boxes in pristine condition often are sold with the item.
• Excellent - Exceptionally clean with minute scratches or nicks but no dents or rust.
• Very Good - Clean, with a few noticeable scratches, but otherwise free of dents, rust, and warping.
• Good - Quite a few scratches with some small dents and dirty spots.
• Fair - Many scratches, chipped, dented, rusted, or warped.
• Poor - Particularly beat-up; these items often are used for parts or restorations.

Having identified your train and evaluated its condition, you can ascertain its value in several ways. First, check with hobby shops that deal with model trains. The owner or a collector may have ideas. Second, attend swap meets and train shows and, while there, ask some of the dealers about your trains.

Third, consult price guides, which can be purchased at hobby shops and from publishers.

Once you have ideas on what your trains are worth, you can decide whether to keep or sell them. If you decide to sell or a retailer expresses interest in buying your trains, remember that you're selling at wholesale. You should expect to receive about 50 percent of the value listed in price guides because retailers expect to make some profit on the transaction when reselling your trains.

Everyone has heard of Lionel, the giant of the toy train industry. Most of us in model railroading began our journey with an O Gauge Lionel train at Christmas. In later years, most of us moved on from toy trains into true-to-scale model railroading.

For the true modeler of trains, Scale -- not, Gauge -- is the key word. Gauge is the distance between the rails, whereas Scale is the proportion of the whole model railroad, including locomotives, rolling stock (cars), people, animals, vehicles, and scenery, compared with real life.

In N Scale, the proportion is 1-to-160. In other words, anything that is 1 in N Scale is 160 in real life. One foot in N Scale is 160 feet in real life. At Montana NTRAK, we are true N Scale model railroaders.

True Scales include G, O, S, HO, N, and Z. G Scale is the largest. There is an even smaller Scale than Z Scale, but it has not gained significant modeler interest, not yet, anyway. HO Scale is the most popular for home layouts. N Scale, in the form of NTRAK, is the most popular modular or portable form of model railroading.

Regardless of your Scale of choice in model railroading, all of us in the hobby owe a big debt of thanks to Lionel toy trains. Lionel was the genesis of model railroading today.

Back in 1900, Joshua Lionel Cowen launched his toy train firm. He developed toy Standard Gauge (2 1/4-inch between the rails) and helped to popularize O Gauge. (Remember: Gauge is the distance between toy train or real train rails, and Scale is the direct proportion or size of any model as it relates to real life.)

Lionel became the pre-eminent toy train manufacturer during the late 1940s and '50s. In 1969, General Mills secured the rights to manufacture Lionel trains under the names Model Products Corp. and Fundimensions. A man named Richard Kughn acquired those rights in 1986, and he began Wellspring Associates, an investment firm that uses the name Lionel Corp.

Also well-known is American Flyer. Founded in 1907, seven years after Lionel, the American Flyer Manufacturing Co. made windup and electric Wide Gauge (the competitor to Lionel's Standard Gauge) trains. The A. C. Gilbert Co. bought the firm in 1937. After World War II, Gilbert switched from O Gauge to S Gauge. Lionel purchased the rights to produce American Flyer trains, after Gilbert went out of business in 1966, and introduces a few Flyer products each year.

Another company, Marx, offered affordable trains for the masses since the time its founder, Louis Marx, began making inexpensive windup and electric trains in the early 1930s. Consumers looking to purchase inexpensive yet attractive metal or plastic toy trains kept Marx a strong manufacturer well into the 1960s. Although the original company went out of business in 1975, a new Marx Trains Inc. makes Marx trains.

Before Lionel entered the scene, Ives Corp. dominated toy train manufacturing in America. Founded in 1868, just four years after the American Civil War ended, this toy firm developed a mechanical clockwork locomotive that gave its trains the edge of self-propelled motion. Around 1900, in response to competition from European toy makers, Ives produced colorful electric locomotives with the first automatic reversing units. Heightened competition from Lionel and American Flyer led to Ives declaring bankruptcy in 1928.

Among current manufacturers of the large toy trains, a few stand out. MTH Electric Trains makes detailed O Gauge trains and accessories and in recent years has built three extensive product lines (Premier, RailKing, and Tinplate Traditions) that compete directly with Lionel.

K-Line also offers affordable O Gauge trains, track, and accessories. The firm has recently upgraded its product line with scale-detailed diesel locomotives and freight cars, die-cast metal rolling stock, and semi-scale, die-cast metal steam locomotives.

Three other key O Gauge manufacturers are:

Atlas O, which offeres realistic O Scale rolling stock, and building kits, plus diesel and electric locomotives.

Weaver/Quality Craft Models, which offers scale-like brass steam locomotives, plastic diesels, and freight and passenger cars.

Williams, which offers locomotives and all types of rolling stock.

Two firms supply much of the new S Gauge and Scale equipment:

American Models offers a variety of steam, diesel, and electric locomotives, as well as freight cars, and passenger cars.

S Helper Service has become a major manufacturer of train sets, diesels, and freight cars.

The list of N Scale manufacturers is extensive and growing. The Scale became popular in Europe in the 1960s. It has become the second most popular Scale in American model railroading today. NTRAK, the standard for modular model railroading, has helped boost the Scale into extraordinary international popularity.

Nonetheless, today and always, we will remember and be thankful for the toy trains manufactured by Joshua Lionel Cowen.